Chicago style: The adjective seems to attach itself to everything from pizza, hot dogs and blues to architecture and political machines. No matter what the subject, Chicagoans seem to do things with their own distinctive flair, creating innovations that resound far beyond the city's borders.

However, it's no simple matter to define precisely what Chicago's style is. This large and diverse city is many things at once -- a blue-collar town that's full of high culture and gracious living; a town of historical importance that's in no way stuck in the past; a classic Midwestern city with international importance and an international population. Ultimately, Chicago's refusal to conform to any single style, even one that bears its name, is what truly defines this city.

Sights -- The view from the observation decks at Sears Tower and the John Hancock Center ; the skyline at sunrise from Grant Park ; the Old Water Tower (one of only a few downtown buildings left standing after the Great Fire); a Chicago Bears, Blackhawks, Bulls, White Sox or Cubs game; a concert or Ferris-wheel ride at the renovated Navy Pier ; a Chicago Architecture Foundation river tour; or a play at one of Chicago's 200 small theaters.

Museums -- The Art Institute of Chicago ; Museum of Contemporary Art; Museum of Science and Industry ; Field Museum of Natural History.

Memorable Meals -- A true Chicago-style hot dog at Superdawg or Gold Coast Dogs; a slice of Chicago-style pizza at Pizzeria Uno (or Due); prize-winning international fare at Tru or Charlie Trotter's ; watching the beautiful people while dining at a bistro along West Randolph Street.

Late Night -- Improvisational sets at the Second City Theatre; dancing to house music spun by one of Chicago's internationally renowned DJs; blues at one of the city's live-music clubs.

Walks -- A leisurely stroll along Michigan Avenue from the river to the Drake Hotel; a walk through Grant Park to Buckingham Fountain ; the extensive trails along the lakefront ending with stunning views from the beach at North Avenue.

The weather in Chicago can be hot and humid in the summer and extremely cold in the winter. Don't underestimate Chicago's nickname, the Windy City -- gusts off Lake Michigan are occasionally powerful enough to blow you off balance (the steel-and-glass canyons of downtown are especially treacherous). The best time to visit is May-September, when temperatures range 60-90 degrees F/16-32 degrees C. If you plan to go to Chicago for Christmas shopping, be aware that the average temperature in December is 29 F/-2 C, though the wind will make you feel much colder.

Maneuvering within Chicago is relatively easy. The streets generally follow a grid pattern (a good map is still indispensable). Public transportation is cheap and extensive. You can get just about anywhere for a couple of bucks. Most of the tracks in the city's Elevated Train System, known as the "El," provide a view of the neighborhoods you go through -- a pleasant change from the black tunnels of most subway systems. Trains are an especially good option during rush hour, when the city's roads are jammed.

The canyons of the Loop bustle with wheeler-dealers of all kinds transacting their business in buildings that make architecture buffs swoon. Known as the Loop since the cable cars of the 1880s -- and, later, the elevated railway -- looped around the central business district, downtown comprises the area south of the Chicago River, west of Lake Michigan, and north of the Congress Parkway-Eisenhower Expressway.

In the Near North (near and north of the Loop, that is) the smart shops of Michigan Avenue -- or the Magnificent Mile -- give way to the high rises of Streeterville. Farther north in Old Town, what began in the 1850s as a modest neighborhood of working-class German families now accommodates a diverse population and has some of the oldest and most expensive real estate in Chicago. Nearby is the bustling yet residential Lincoln Park, with its namesake lakefront greenbelt, thriving businesses, hot restaurants and clubs, and appealing attractions.

South of the Loop, stretching as far as Roosevelt Road, is Downtown South, its Printer's Row district a thriving urban neighborhood enclave thanks to recent development and the conversion of old industrial spaces into shops and residences. Farther afield is the Kenwood and Hyde Park area, an urban renewal success story studded with townhouses designed by I.M. Pei and Harry Weese, as well as the home of the University of Chicago. A ride along South Lake Shore Drive between Hyde Park and downtown is especially worthwhile for its spectacular views of the downtown skyline and the lake.

Chicago's extensive public transportation network (CTA) includes buses and both subway and elevated rapid transit trains (the latter known as the El). Taxis and limousines are readily available, precluding the need for a rental car in the city unless you plan to visit suburbs not served by the commuter rail system, Metra Electric.

Chicago's entertainment varies from loud and loose to sophisticated and sedate. You'll find the classic Chicago corner bar in most neighborhoods, along with trendier alternatives -- wine bars are hip these days. The strains of blues and jazz provide much of the backbeat to the city's groove, and an alternative country scene is flourishing. As far as dancing is concerned, the action has switched from cavernous clubs to smaller spots with DJs spinning dance tunes; there's everything from hip-hop to swing. In the past few years, Wicker Park and Bucktown have been the hottest nightlife neighborhoods, but prime spots are spread throughout the city.

The Reader and New City (distributed midweek in bookstores, record shops, and other city establishments) are your best guides to the entertainment scene. These free weeklies have comprehensive, timely listings and reviews. The Friday editions of the Chicago Tribune and Chicago Sun-Times are also good sources of information. On the Web, gives daily updates on what's happening around town. Shows usually begin at 9 PM; cover charges generally range from $3 to $20, depending on the day of the week (Friday and Saturday nights are the most expensive). Most bars stay open until 2 AM Friday night and 3 AM Saturday, except for a few after-hours spots and some larger dance bars, which are often open until 4 AM Friday night and 5 AM Saturday. Outdoor beer gardens are the exception; these close at 11 PM on weekdays and midnight on weekends. Some bars are not open seven days a week, so call before you go.

Parking in North Side neighborhoods, particularly Lincoln Park and Lake View, is increasingly scarce, even on weeknights. If you're visiting nightspots in these areas, consider taking a cab or public transportation. If you're driving, many restaurants and clubs offer valet service at the curb for $6-$7. The list of blues and jazz clubs includes several South Side locations: visitors to Chicago should be cautious about transportation here late at night because some of these neighborhoods can be unsafe. Drive your own car or ask the bartender to call you a cab.

Chicago is a splendid city for the arts. The Shubert, Auditorium, Chicago, Oriental, and Goodman theaters -- Chicago bases for Broadway-scale shows -- are complemented by more than 75 small neighborhood-based theaters where young actors polish their skills. The Lyric Opera plays to houses that are always sold out; the Chicago Opera Theatre augments the Lyric's repertoire with a spring season of smaller works. The Chicago Symphony Orchestra gives world-class performances; the Ravinia Festival and the Grant Park outdoor concerts draw huge crowds in summer. Music lovers hungry for more turn to smaller performing groups: Music of the Baroque, Bella Voce, the Oriana Singers, and dozens more. Dance aficionados enjoy performances of outstanding companies, including the Joffrey Ballet of Chicago.

For complete music and theater listings, check two free weeklies, The Reader and New City, both published midweek; the Friday and Sunday editions of the Chicago Tribune and Chicago Sun-Times ; and the monthly Chicago magazine.

Ticket prices vary wildly depending on whether you're seeing a high-profile group or venturing into more obscure territory. Chicago Symphony tickets range from $11 to $95, the Lyric Opera from $28 to $132 (if you can get them). Smaller choruses and orchestras charge from $10 to $25; watch the listings for free performances. Commercial theater ranges from $15 to $75; smaller experimental ensembles might charge $5, $10, or pay-what-you-can. Movie prices range from $9 for first-run houses to as low as $1.50 at some suburban second-run houses. Some commercial chains take credit cards.

Prices are per person for a main course at dinner.

However you judge a city's dining scene -- by ethnic diversity, breadth and depth of high-quality establishments, or nationally prominent chefs -- Chicago ranks as one of the nation's finest restaurant towns. Here you'll find innovative hot spots, lovingly maintained traditional establishments, and everything in between. Chicago's more than 7,000 restaurants range from those ranked among the best in the country -- and priced accordingly -- to simple storefront ethnic places and old-fashioned, unpretentious pubs serving good food at modest prices.

Chicago's most sophisticated cooking, once clustered neatly downtown, with the notable exceptions of Charlie Trotter's and Arun's, is increasingly busting the The Loop confines. Now many of the city's most exciting meals require an outing to gentrifying Wicker Park (Spring, Fortunato), nearby West Loop (Nine, Blackbird), or the north's Lincoln Square (She She).

There's a rational price-geography correlation in Chicago: the closer you eat to downtown, the more you pay. But venture into the neighborhoods and you not only dine well but reasonably. Bistrot Margot in the Old Town section of Near North, for example, upholds downtown standards but holds the line on prices. Farther afield, you find personable places that do not rely on the expense-account crowd to survive, such as La Petite Folie to the south, Pasteur to the north, and plenty of spots in between -- all well worth seeking out.